Nusa Penida Island

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LocalinBali-The history of the island of Nusa Penida in Bali begins in the 10th century. The earliest writings about Nusa Penida have indeed been found in the Belanjong Pillar, dating to 914 AD. This pillar contains an inscription that mentions the military expedition of the first Balinese King, Sri Kesari Warmadewa, to conquer Nusa Penida.

The history of Nusa Penida until the arrival of the Dutch

The people of Nusa Penida have long been able to resist the Balinese kings who organized many other military expeditions. However, in the second half of the 17th century, the island of Nusa Penida was definitely conquered by the expedition of the Gelgel Dynasty. The last king of Nusa Penida, Dalem Bungkut, died in battle.

Map of the History of the Kingdom of Nusa Penida Bali7 The Kingdom of Bali in 1900

Nusa Penida later became part of the palace of Klungkung, one of the nine kingdoms in Bali. After the integration of Bali into the Dutch East Indies in 1908 which later became Indonesia, Nusa Penida remained attached to the Klungkung Regency.

A Dutch map made in 1900 referred to Nusa Penida as Bandit Island. Why? Because in the past, Klungkung Regency had deported criminals, political opponents and experts in black magic to Nusa Penida. This may be the origin of the island's very bad reputation. It may also be the origin of the legends surrounding the history of Nusa Penida. After all, this bad reputation kept the island of tourism for a very long time!

What does Nusa Penida mean?

Nusa means “island” and penida means “priest” in Balinese. So Nusa Penida literally means priest's island. Better than Bandit Island, the name given by the Dutch in 1900!

The reputation and smell of adventure around Nusa Penida is also inspired by the comic strip created by cartoonist Bob de Moor and published in the Journal of Tintin in 1950. The comic strip traces the adventures of Georges Barelli who lands in Nusa Penida after a long adventure. The album cover and title: “Witch's Island” speak for themselves!

history of Nusa Penida Bob de Moor Barelli Witch's IslandBarelli to Nusa Penida : Witch's Island
Black magic, an inseparable part of the history of Nusa Penida

According to legend, the last king of Bali, Dalem Bungkut, had become the feared ruler of another world, Ratu Gede Mas Mecaling, the Great God with golden fangs. According to another legend, Mecaling lived in Bali, in the small village of Batuan, before being exiled to Nusa Penida for his black magic. However, he is still feared by some Balinese who dare not say his name out loud.

Mecaling is a powerful magician. He regularly sends disease and plague to the Balinese as revenge. One day when the Balinese were celebrating Nyepi with great joy and laughter, Mecaling decided to trick them. He went to Bali in the form of Barong, a good army leader. And his demon army destroyed everything in Bali. Since then, the Balinese New Year, Nyepi, has been a day of silence, no one making a sound or having fun, to fool the demons if they come back. This is why the people of Nusa Penida follow the Nyepi tradition strictly.

The origin of the pilgrimage to Nusa Penida

The next day, the frightened Balinese went to a priest. He called Barong to send Mecaling back to Nusa Penida. The high priest of the Gelgel kingdom then came to Nusa Penida to cleanse the island of dark spirits and banish Mecaling. However, Mecaling has not completely disappeared and Pura Ped Temple still maintains its spirit. Hence, this shrine becomes a source of strength for those who practice black magic. But it is also a place of pilgrimage for those seeking refuge from evil and disease. There is also a solemn ritual that every Hindu in Bali must perform at least once in this lifetime. During a pilgrimage to Pura Pura Ped in Nusa Penida, he must find a balance between the negative and the positive. That is the only way to achieve serenity and harmony.

Dalem Ped Temple Nusa Penida Bali IndonesiaDalem Ped Temple, Nusa Penida

What temples are there in Bali and Nusa Penida?

Pura comes from Sanskrit which means "city or" palace. There are several types of temples, each of which has a specific function in Balinese rituals.

Located in the mountainous region of Bali, Pura kahyangan universe. The mountains were considered a magical and haunted sacred realm. The most important heavenly temple in Bali is the Besakih complex which is located on the slopes of Mount Agung.

For water management functions above religious functions, Pura Tirta,

Located in villages and towns, Pura Desa serves as a center for Balinese religious activities.

The puseh temple is dedicated to worshiping Vishnu.

Mrajapati temple to worship prajapati, the creator and protector.

Located by the sea to appease the gods and sea gods Segara temples are usually important during Melasti An example of this type of temple is Tanah Lot Temple

Pura Dalem, dedicated to the worship of Shiva, Durga, Mother Earth, Banaspatiraja (barong), Sang Bhuta Diyu, Sang Bhuta Garwa, and other gods. These temples are connected with rituals about death.

The most visited temples on the island of Nusa Penida are Pura Dalem Ped and Pura Goa Giri Putri. Both are important places to understand the culture and history of Nusa Penida.

Dalem Ped Temple

Dalem Ped Temple is the most important temple on the island of Nusa Penida. Because it's the host of the demon lord Mecaling himself. The Balinese consider it one of the holiest temples in Bali. The five temples are actually Pura Dalem Ped. The first is Pura Segara, the palace of Batara Baruna (God of the Ocean), in the north, close to the Nusa Strait Sea coast from where you can hear the ocean waves crashing. To the south, you will find Pura Taman, a temple garden with a pond overgrown with lotus plants. It is a temple for purgatory. The main temple, Penataran Ratu Gede Mecaling, is in the west and is a symbol of the magical power of the island of Nusa Penida. The last two temples are Pelebaan Ratu Mas and Bale Agung.

I first went to Pura Dalem Ped in December 2019 to take holy water for an important ceremony during the construction of the Adiwana Warnakali Hotel. I know the ceremony will take place in 4 different temples. But I just understand all day that there will be 10 ceremonies, in every temple in every temple. And believe me, we collected a lot of holy water for the ceremony the next day!
Collecting holy water at Dalem Ped Temple in Nusa Penida Collecting holy water at Dalem Ped Temple in Nusa Penida.

Goa Giri Putri Temple

Goa Giri Putri Temple is one of 15 amazing sites to see on the island of Nusa Penida. It is located inside an impressive cave. The word “goa” means cave, “giri” means 'hill' and “putri” means 'princess'. This cave is indeed a sacred site mostly dedicated to Shiva. Shiva is the third god in the Hindu triad. The triumvirate consists of the three gods who are responsible for the creation, maintenance, and destruction of the world. The other two gods are Brahma and Vishnu. Shiva's role is to destroy the universe in order to recreate it.

At the end of the cave, you'll also find a shrine dedicated to the Chinese Buddhist goddess of compassion, Guanyin.

Visiting Goa Giri Putri is an amazing experience, always enchanting. And I never miss the ceremony at the last temple in the cave to get the famous red and white black Balinese bracelet on my wrist.

Goa Giri Putri Temple Nusa Penida Bali Indonesia Goa Giri Putri Temple, Nusa Penida.

Puncak Mundi Temple

Puncak Mundi Temple is located on the highest peak in Nusa Penida, more than 500 meters above sea level. The trails are in excellent condition and offer great views across the island. The area is still very beautiful and you will definitely come across monkeys.

This temple was founded in the 50th Saka year (128 AD). Batara Guru (the incarnation of Lord Shiva) came down to the world in the Puncak Mundi area and transformed into a priest known as Dukuh Jumpungan.
Puncak Mundi Temple consists of three temples: Beji Temple, Krangkeng Temple and Puncak Mundi Temple.
Puncak Mundi Temple Nusa Penida Bali Indonesia Puncak Mundi Temple
What to do before entering a temple in Bali?
Before entering any holy temple in Bali, you must wear traditional Balinese clothes such as a sarong. Usually you can rent it before entering any temple. You also need to think positively. You are not allowed to do bad things and speak rudely. Women cannot enter the temple during their menstrual period.

Rules for entering the Balinese temple Goa Giri Putri Nusa Penida Rules for entering the Balinese temple

How to wear a sarong in Bali?

Wearing a sarong properly is important in local culture. In Balinese, the sarong is called kamen. Men and women wear it differently. A woman wraps her scabbard from right to left, about one and a half times, ending at the right hip. The outer layer should fall lower than the inner layer. The sarong should cover the body from the hips to the ankles. Clothes can be held in place simply by tying them, or with long cords tied at both ends. Balinese women usually wear an outer waist corset above the stomach to keep it neat. Belts (senteng) are mandatory for both men and women who attend the ceremony or enter the temple. Women wear a sash on the outside of their blouse.

A man will wrap his scabbard from left to right around the hips, around the calf length. Most importantly, it is tied so that the extra fabric falls on the front with a flower, which is called a shawl. The kamen is secured with a belt, and over it is worn the obligatory belt, often with a secondary hip cloth.
the nusa penida row dance row, bali apple photography, the Jangkang row dance (photo apple photography).

Nusa Penida Culture

Nusa Penida belongs to Bali but has its own Balinese dialect, which is not spoken anywhere else in Bali. And there are some aspects of Nusa Penida's culture that are unique.

Anchor Line Dance

What is unique about Nusa Penida is the Baris Jangkang dance. It represents the army of demons who served Dalem Bungkut, the last king of Nusa Penida, in the war against the forces of King Bali Waturenggong of Gelgel. The dancers wear traditional clothes (kamben cepuk) from Nusa Penida and are equipped with long spears.

This dance begins with a clown character wearing a mask that explains the background of the war. Next came the demon army, followed by their leader, Dalem Bungkut and his warlord I Gde Mecaling. Dalem Bungkut and I Gde Mecaling danced with lots of laughs, speaking in a strange satanic language. Meanwhile the demon army danced in slow and simple movements.

National Cultural Heritage

This sacred dance is designated as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage (WBTB) by the Ministry of Education and Culture. The Pelilit Traditional Village, Pinginutan in Nusa Penida, near Atuh Beach, for example, often performs this dance at piodalan or temple festivals. In this village, the Baris Jangkang Dance features various stories such as Guak Maling Banten (Crow steals offerings), Buyung Masugi (Flies wash their faces), and Jelantik Maisik (Jelantik whispers). The main purpose of this dance is to ward off disaster. The musical instruments used are very simple, such as kempul, gamelan, petuk, cymbals and jerky.

You can also watch this dance performance during the Semarapura Festival, Nusa Penida Festival, and the Bali Arts Festival every year.

In addition, Nusa Penida also has many interesting tourist attractions for foreign guests who travel there

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